Summer trip to Greenland
— Can we go there?
— It’s your journey. You can go anywhere you want
This is a short story about my journey to Greenland. I love wide open spaces, endless expanses, and distant horizons. Greenland gradually transformed from a dream into a goal and a real trip. I started planning and booking two months before the trip, and finally spent five nights in Greenland June 11-16, 2024.
You can find a gallery from this journey here.
Itinerary
If I had to summarize my itinerary, it would look like this: Copenhagen — Kangerlussuaq — Aasiaat — Ilulissat. I spent a day in Ilulissat, took a ferry, and sailed for three nights to Nuuk. After spending a day in Nuuk, I returned to Copenhagen with a stopover in Iceland.
At the time of writing this article, the new airport in Nuuk had not yet opened. The airport in Ilulissat is also undergoing renovations. There are two ways to get to Greenland: from Denmark or Iceland.
Taking off from Copenhagen on the new and comfy Airbus A330 Neo was a treat. The spacious cabin, bathed in light, set the perfect tone for the journey. The daytime flight left me feeling relaxed and cheerful. Following a brief one-and-a-half-hour stopover in Kangerlussuaq, the adventure continued on a quaint propeller plane bound for Ilulissat. Along the way, a surprise detour landed us in Aasiaat, a charming spot with a tiny airport, before we continued our flight, arriving in Ilulissat just 20 minutes later.
Upon landing in Kangerlussuaq, I thought «Oh my God, I’m in Greenland!» On domestic flights approaching Aasiaat and Ilulissat, you can see icebergs from the airplane window. Make sure to get a window seat!
Ilulissat
The first thing that stands out is the number of cars, which seems high for a town with a population of just 5,000. There are no traffic lights or sidewalks, although there are some pedestrian crossing signs. However, people cross the street wherever they please. This town, like the other settlements in Greenland, is full of bright, colorful wooden houses.
On the southern edge of town is the Ilulissat Icefjord Centre, a new museum dedicated to Ilulissat, the region, and Greenland. It also features a wealth of scientific materials. The museum is quite cozy, thanks primarily to its wooden floors. Interestingly, you have to remove your shoes in the hallway before entering.
On the way to the Arctic Centre, you pass by an area where sled dogs are kept. Keeping dogs at home is illegal, so they are housed in designated areas. By June, there is no snow, so you can’t take a ride on a dog sled. The dogs howl plaintively, eager to run. These dogs live for movement. They need snow and space. Dogs are the soul of Ilulissat.
There are the starting points for three hiking trails just beyond the museum. This area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. To see the icebergs in Disko Bay, it takes only about 15–20 minutes from the museum. The path is made of wood. When you see the first icebergs over the hill, you’ll be breathless. There are a couple of benches on the hill and in good weather, you can relax and enjoy the stunning view of Disko Bay. If you visit in June, you’ll likely encounter small patches of snow. Be careful: you might sink up to your knees in the snow.
For my first evening, I booked a tour with Disko Line here. It was supposed to be a sunset tour, but the weather was cloudy. We spent 2.5 hours sailing among the icebergs in the bay, and at one point, we stopped for half an hour while we were treated to gin made from local herbs with ice fished out of the water. I highly recommend this activity! It’s a fantastic opportunity to see the icebergs up close!
During the sail, our guide collected a piece of ice right off an iceberg! Then we were treated to gin made with the herb «qajaq», with that very ice added! While the drinks were being prepared, the guide told us about the area and the ice. As it turns out, there are many types of ice. For example, there’s the so-called «black ice» which is crystal clear but also the most dangerous. It’s hard to spot in the water. Ship captains fear encountering this kind of ice.
Settlements in Greenland are scattered along the coast, hundreds of kilometers apart from one another. Beyond the Arctic Circle, depending on the latitude, each place has its specific date when locals greet the first rays of the sun after the polar winter.
From November 29th to January 13th, the sun does not rise in Ilulissat. Therefore, January 13th is a special day for the residents: they prepare to welcome the first rays. In June, however, the sun never sets below the horizon at night.
Ferry
The next day, I boarded the ferry Sarfaq Ittuk operated by Arctic Umiaq Line (https://aul.gl/en/experience-greenland/). Although some people use the ferry for tourism purposes, as I did, it primarily serves to transport passengers between remote settlements for locals along the west coast of Greenland. At least half of the passengers were locals.
Nothing extra. There were cabins, a cafe lounge (where most of the time was spent), upper decks for strolling and taking photos, and a small cinema. If you get seasick, you can buy pills in the cafe. Along the way, we stopped at large settlements (by Greenlandic standards), where you could disembark and walk around for 2-3 hours. There were also smaller villages where the ship couldn’t dock at the pier. In such places, the ferry would stop near the docks, and lower a boat into the water to shuttle people to the village.
People
A journey by ship is a visual delight from the majesty of nature and a unique opportunity for meeting and interacting with others. During three days at sea, I was fortunate to meet several locals heading south in Greenland. These encounters unveiled many secrets of the local customs and way of life.
One such acquaintance was Rassi. He is from a settlement that the ship visits only twice a year! Last year, he traveled south on the ferry and met his parents along the way. This time, the ship stopped in his parents’ village for just 30 minutes, but it was enough to see them. «When will you see them next?» I asked. «I don’t know, maybe in a year or two,» Rassi thoughtfully replied. He told me about an exciting journey with his father by dog sled to relatives in Canada across the frozen Nares Strait during winter. He also mentioned that it takes six seals to make one kayak (it’s crazy!). He made his own as a part of a college project.
Another resident spoke about the difficulty of life under Danish government rule. However, what stood out in his words was above all the respect for the traditions of his ancestors and the steadfast adherence to the traditional Eskimo faith.
Nuuk
After three nights on the ferry, we docked in Nuuk. This was my final destination for the sea voyage. The ferry itself makes a several-hour stop in Nuuk before continuing further south. After saying goodbye to my new friends, I set out to explore the capital of Greenland.
I noticed a few private homes with trees growing on their properties by the shore. Yes, they were small, but after spending several days in Greenland, it’s something you immediately notice. After all, aside from a small area in the south of the island, there is no vegetation besides grass.
After visiting small settlements with populations of 500-1,000 people, Nuuk feels like a metropolis. They even have traffic lights here! The city is actively developing and expanding (which might not be to the residents’ liking).
For hiking enthusiasts, I can recommend a great spot just near Nuuk. Along the way, take a look at the new, unusual prison. I think many hotels could envy the views from the windows of this prison. To get to Paradise Valley (https://maps.app.goo.gl/gE6yEjNoYfQaDTAo7), you’ll need to walk around the airport territory and pass by the prison (either on foot or by car). You should leave your car and proceed on foot where you see such strange structures like in the photo below.
Expenses
Flight Copenhagen — Ilulissat — $667
Ferry Ilulissat — Nuuk — $998
1 night in Ilulissat (AirBnB) with a simple breakfast — $102
1 night in the Soma hotel, Nuuk. With breakfast — $76 https://hotelsoma.com/
Flight Nuuk to Copenhagen (via Keflavik) — $537
Evening boat tour for 2 hours — $120.
Ilulissat Icefjord Centre — $20
Plus various small expenses for food and souvenirs.
Total: about $2800-$3000
Clothing advice
The temperature in Greenland, even in the summer, is very unpredictable. In Ilulissat, in June, the air can warm up to 15 degrees Celsius (59 degrees Fahrenheit). However, in the evenings, it can drop to around zero. Expect sun, rain, and wind.
Layering is key. Start with a regular T-shirt or thermal underwear. Add a fleece sweater. Over that, wear either a waterproof jacket or a regular puffer jacket plus a waterproof windbreaker.
A hat is essential, and it should cover your ears. You’ll need to protect your ears and head not so much from the cold as the wind.
I also strongly recommend bringing a buff. It can be used to cover your ears or as a scarf.
Traveling to distant places like Greenland offers a chance to escape the rush of everyday life and rediscover the world. Every step here feels like an encounter with the unknown, a moment to embrace freedom and silence. These experiences stay with you, giving not just memories, but a true sense of living.
Life is too short to postpone your travels. Hurry to live. Hurry to see the world with your eyes, not a phone screen. See you beyond the horizon!
Far from home.
But where is home?